Up until 50 years ago, ceramic tile was always laid into a thick layer of wet mortar reinforced with metal mesh—a method that made for a very durable floor but one that was very hard to remove and replace. The introduction of cement-board backer panels in the early s gradually led to the elimination of mortar-bed installation in most situations and opened the way for the use of thin-set adhesives for applying ceramic and porcelain tiles on floors, walls, and countertops.
These ceramic tile products are "floating" floors that are not glued to the subfloor. The system uses real porcelain tiles that are permanently adhered to a proprietary "tray" layer that has click-together tabs along the edges.
The system requires no backer board or thin-set adhesives, and it does not even require mortar grout. Instead, grout lines are filled with a flexible urethane grout. SnapStone is a true floating floor, much like most laminate flooring planks. It is not adhered to the subfloor and underlayment in any way; instead, it simply lays on the surface, gaining its stability through the interlocking edges that hold the entire flooring layer together as one unified surface. The heavy weight makes this a fairly stable floor so long as the underlayment is solid and smooth.
Unlike earlier attempts at ceramic tile products of this type, where the tiles were laid down into a separate tray applied to the subfloor, SnapStone is an integrated system in which each individual tile includes the porcelain layer, the tray layer, and side-locking mechanism.
Even if you wanted to, you could not separate the tile from the tray. Unlike floating laminate flooring, which tends to lock by butting the edges together and pivoting downward, SnapStone tiles lock by placing each tile flat on the floor and then sliding one tile toward the other until you hear a click.
One of the best things about SnapStone is automatic spacing. Cement board , also known as a cementitious backer unit CBU and going under brand names such as Durock and HardieBacker, provides a rock-solid substrate that is perfect for ceramic tile installation. Measure all walls to determine the center point for each wall. Snap a chalk line between each of the two opposing walls to create a cross pattern.
Without mortar or grout, lay out tiles and tile spacers in a line on each arm of the cross. The idea is to avoid having small, cut tiles against a wall, as this can be visually jarring. Shift this cross-like assembly in any direction, so that any tile that borders a wall is as close as possible to being a half tile or larger. When you pick up the tile, carefully stack the pieces so that you can keep track of which tiles go where. Pick up a small batch of thinset mortar with your margin trowel or with the flat side of your notched trowel and deposit the thinset on the cement board.
Holding the flat side of your notched tile trowel at a degree angle, spread the mortar across the surface until it covers an area extending beyond the perimeter of a tile. Switch to the notched side of the same trowel and, again holding it at a degree angle and pressing firmly to the cement board, comb the thinset by pulling the trowel in straight lines. The notches in the trowel automatically regulate the amount of thinset deposited on the surface.
Gently press the tile into the wet thinset, twisting the tile back and forth to press it deeper into the thinset. Your aim is to collapse any ridges in the mortar and fill in gaps. Occasionally lift a tile and check the back to ensure full coverage. As you progress from one tile to the next, place tile spacers at the corners to maintain consistent spacing.
Do not add mortar to these gaps. Lay the bubble level across multiple tiles to check for both level and to eliminate lippage from one tile to the next. Lightly tap the tiles with the rubber mallet to level them. For cutting only a few tiles, a rail tile cutter can inexpensively and effectively snap apart tiles.
Place the uneven, snapped sides against the wall, where baseboards will cover them. Buy or rent a wet tile saw for perfectly straight cuts.
Use the tile nipper only for cutting around pipes, toilet bases, and for other non-linear cuts. Always wear safety glasses with any mode of tile cutting to protect your eyes against flying shards. After removing the tile spacers, use the rubber float to press the grout into the tile seams. After allowing the grout to cure for 20 minutes wipe the tiles with a clean, damp sponge to remove any excess grout from the tiled surface.
Wipe just a small area, clean out the sponge, and then wipe some more. It is best to do this for each small area as you complete it but you can wait until you have done two to four small areas as well. Keep in mind, however, that it will be much harder to get the grout off and the final look may not be as professional.
Allow it to cure. Now, allow the grout to cure for three hours or whatever amount of time is recommended on your product directions. Make sure that the area remains dry and that it gets adequate ventilation. Some additives may cause the grout to cure more slowly. See the included packaging for any addendums to the curing process.
You can clean off any remaining residue after the grout has cured. An old sock or dry rag work well for this. Seal the grout. Once you have installed all of your tile, you'll want to apply a grout sealer. This will help keep mold from growing in the gaps and will need to be reapplied usually every year preferably every six months.
Though every sealer is different, usually it is a wax which must be applied in a circular motion with a rag. You can also get brush-on or spray-on tile sealer.
Do not put these sealers on non-glazed, unfinished tile. It will absorb into and possibly stain the tile. Did you know you can get expert answers for this article? Unlock expert answers by supporting wikiHow. Art Fricke. Support wikiHow by unlocking this expert answer. Not Helpful 1 Helpful 3. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 2. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 1. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.
By using this service, some information may be shared with YouTube. In wet environments, it is best to apply a bead of silicone caulking around the borders of the tile installation. Helpful 66 Not Helpful If you notice a skin forming on top of the thinset mortar or tile mastic, do not install tiles over it. Scrape it off using a paint scraper and apply fresh mortar before continuing.
Helpful 36 Not Helpful Ceramic tiles can be applied to nearly any surface, including both painted and unfinished drywall. However, for the best adhesion, consider installing cement backer board underneath the tiles. Helpful 46 Not Helpful If you need to remove existing tile or eventually need to change the tile you're laying down now, removing ceramic tile is an easy task and you can do it yourself by hand or using an electric chisel hammer.
Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0. You Might Also Like How to. How to. Expert Interview. About This Article. Co-authored by:. Co-authors: Updated: September 15, Categories: Tiles and Tiling. Article Summary X To install ceramic wall tile, use a level and measuring tape to mark the tile locations on the wall with chalk. Italiano: Rivestire una Parete di Piastrelle in Ceramica. Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read , times. I have done some tiling before so it is not altogether new to me.
Your instructions and pictures simply confirm that I am on the right track. Many thanks. More reader stories Hide reader stories. Did this article help you? Cookies make wikiHow better. By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Kenneth Jones Mar 13, Carlos De Luna May 31, Learned several things like what's needed to get the job done. Before this, I knew nothing. Just by looking at the pictures, I know what to buy and do.
Laura Fleming Summa Jun 29, It's been years since I've done this and I needed a refresher. This was very helpful.
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